Paris Soir - London Fashion Week kicks off with tribute to New York

The show by Irish-American designer Paul Costelloe, titled "Once upon a Time" -- a reference to the iconic 1984 film "Once Upon a Time in America" -- showcased wide-belted coats in ecru, anthracite or checkered tweed.

Costelloe, 78, who is bedridden with a virus, was absent from the event.

In another early show, Ukrainian Masha Popova, a "Gen Z" favourite, presented a collection inspired by early 2000s fashion.

Performed against a backdrop of techno music and in front of a crowd of influencers, it featured models in low-waisted pants, washed out denim -- and heels topped with long gaiters.

The five-day fashion extravaganza, celebrating its 40th year in the UK capital, will bring together creators, influencers, buyers and celebrities, with organisers hoping it brings some cheer to young designers hit by a gloomy economy.

Around 60 budding talents as well as renowned names like Burberry will present its 2024 autumn/winter lines across London on live and virtual stages.

Unlike Paris and Milan, which predominantly showcases established houses, London Fashion Week (LFW) is heralded for promoting young talents, such as Masha Popova and British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker, who kicked off the event Friday.

The weekend will feature some familiar names such as JW Anderson -- whose founder Jonathan Anderson was named Designer of the Year 2023 by Vogue -- Richard Quinn, Ahluwalia and Simone Rocha.

- 'Visceral' -

The showcase comes at a tumultuous time for Britain's fashion industry, amid post-Brexit trade barriers and the country's inflation-fuelled cost-of-living crisis.

The situation has prompted some nascent designers to question the viability of investing in British fashion events.

Rising star Dilara Findikoglu made headlines last September after she cancelled her show days before the event for financial reasons.

The industry, which employs close to 900,000 people in the UK and contributes £21 billion ($26 billion) to the British economy, is facing "incredibly challenging times," LFW's director Caroline Rush told AFP.

But what can be garnered from 40 years, she said, "is that in the most economically challenging times, you see the most incredible creativity".

"There's almost this visceral reaction to what's happening at home," Rush added.

"I'm hoping that the creativity that we see over the next few days will be incredibly uplifting, that it will talk about the role of culture and creativity in society."

- Diversity -

LFW has come a long way over the last four decades.

In 1984, a tent in a west London parking lot hosted its first edition.

Over the ensuing years, with the help of rebellious designers like Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano and the 1990s "Cool Britannia" era, the city placed itself firmly on the global fashion map.

The '90s period in particular saw high-profile names like Stella McCartney dressing supermodels Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell in the capital's bi-annual event.

Since then, however, it has lost some of its allure, with star designers and houses including Alexander McQueen and Victoria Beckham preferring to showcase their designs in Paris.

However, the British Fashion Council's NEWGEN sponsorship initiative, which supports young designers in launching their careers, has solidified London's status as a talent incubator.

And while it may be less influential than Paris and Milan, the youngest of the four major "fashion weeks" continues to be celebrated for its freedom, radicalism and less conventional approach.

This year, LFW is set to promote a broader spectrum of diversity and inclusivity, embracing a variety of body types, ages and skin tones among the models.

It will also showcase designers' collections that draw on identities and inspirations from the Caribbean, Iran, India, and Ethiopia.

British brand Burberry, one of the flagship designers at the event, has been building anticipation for the third collection of its English creative director Daniel Lee, which will be shown on Monday.

In recent days, the high-end department store Harrods has been adorned in Burberry's new signature colour "knight blue," from the porters' uniforms to the facade of the institution.

V.Lambert--PS